Strawberry "fridge jam".

Strawberries are plentiful now, too, and I've been freezing them into vanilla-scented parfaits as one way to avoid wastage.
I also won't get through the summer without making at least one batch of strawberry "fridge jam".
This low-sugar, fast-cooked preserve has a fresher, fruitier flavour and softer set than standard jams; as well as dolloping it on to toast, I use it as a kind of fruity sauce.

To make it,
combine 1.5kg of lightly crushed strawberries with
the juice of one lemon and
1kg jam sugar with pectin.
After leaving this to sit for an hour, bring it to a rolling boil and keep it there for just five minutes before potting in sterilised jars.
After opening, it will keep for about three weeks in the fridge.

Rhubarb makes a delicious jam as well, particularly when combined with ginger.
To ensure success, follow some basic preserving etiquette.
First, measure and weigh your ingredients carefully and follow recipes closely – there's some science involved in preserving, and all instructions are there for a reason.
Second, remember that cleanliness is paramount.
Don't use very damaged or slightly mouldy produce, and always sterilise jars or bottles.
This is very simple: just wash the jars or bottles and lids in very hot, soapy water, rinse them in equally hot, clean water, then put them in the oven at 120C/250F/gas mark ¼ for 20-30 minutes.
This dries them and heats them up (hot preserves should go into hot jars), but also knocks on the head any lingering bacteria.
Another sterilising method is to run the jars through a hot dishwasher cycle, then use them straight away, while still hot from the machine.

Gooseberry curd.

Mid-season gooseberries are fat, flavourful and juicy: combine ripe with slightly under-ripe berries for the best jams.
I also love gooseberries in a smooth but tart curd.
This is a little more subtle and complex than a pure lemon curd, with the floral flavour of the gooseberries dancing on the tastebuds.
There's nothing better on a scone or hot breakfast pancakes.
Makes about five small (250-300ml) jars.



500g gooseberries
100ml lemon juice (around 3-4)
125g unsalted butter
450g granulated sugar
200ml strained beaten egg (around 4-5 large eggs)

Sterilise some jars - Place your jars in the oven and heat to 140°C.
Leave them there until needed.
Put the gooseberries in a pan with the lemon juice.
Bring slowly to a simmer, stirring often, until the fruit starts to release its juice, then simmer gently for five to 10 minutes until the fruit has collapsed.
Rub this mixture through a fine sieve to get a thin, smooth gooseberry puree.

Put the puree, butter and sugar into a large basin over a pan of simmering water.
Stir until the butter has melted and the mixture is smooth.
Take off the heat and let it cool for a minute – you don't want it to be too hot when you pour in the eggs, or they will scramble.
It should be cool enough that you can comfortably put your finger into it.

Pour in the strained beaten egg, whisking all the while.
Return the pan to the heat and stir the mixture over the simmering water until thick and creamy and registering at least 82C on a sugar thermometer.
This requires patience – it will take a good 10 minutes, probably more – but the curd is much less likely to get too hot and scramble than if you cooked it directly in a pan.
If the curd does start to scramble, take it off the heat and whisk vigorously until smooth.

As soon as it has thickened, pour the curd into the hot jars and seal.
Leave to cool before labelling.
Use the curd within four weeks; once opened, keep in the fridge and use within a week.

Sweet roasted quince.

We've been tucking into quince cooked in honey and spices since the middle ages – try these, and it's easy to see why.
They're delicious served hot with good vanilla ice-cream.
Serves six.

18 cloves
3 quinces, unpeeled, halved and cored
Juice of ½ lemon
200ml port (or sweet red wine)
5 tbsp runny honey
3 cinnamon sticks
2 star anise (optional)

Heat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4.
Press three cloves into the skin of each quince half, and place the fruit cut-side down in a roasting tin.
Whisk together 400ml water, the lemon juice, port and honey, and pour over the quinces.
Place the cinnamon sticks in the tray, along with the star anise, if using.

Bake for about an hour, until sticky and golden.
Now turn the quince right-side up and continue baking until very tender – about 15 minutes more.
Carefully remove the cloves from the skin.

Remove the pan from the oven and let the quince cool slightly.
If there is lots of liquid in the tin, strain it into a small pan and simmer to reduce to a thick syrup.
Put a quince half on each plate, spoon over some of the cooking juices (or syrup) and serve with ice-cream.

- Quince recipes | Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall | Life and style | The Guardian

Sticky quince and ginger cake.

This makes a pretty, moist cake studded with poached quince and stem ginger.
Save any leftover poaching syrup – it will solidify into a jelly and is delicious spread on toast.
Makes one 23cm cake.

150g butter, softened, plus a little more for greasing
2 large-ish quinces (about 600g)
160g caster or vanilla sugar
160g runny honey
1 small thumb fresh ginger, peeled and finely diced
Juice of ½ lemon
250g plain flour
2 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp baking powder
Good pinch of salt
180g caster or vanilla sugar
3 eggs, plus 1 egg yolk
100g creme fraiche
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 balls stem ginger in syrup, drained and chopped

For the topping
3 tbsp syrup from the ginger jar
3 tbsp quince poaching liquid
2 tbsp granulated sugar

Heat the oven to 170C/325F/gas mark 3.
Grease a 23cm x 5cm round, spring-form cake tin, line the base and sides with baking parchment, and butter the parchment.

Peel, quarter and core the quinces.
Cut each quarter into 1cm slices.
Put the quince into a large saucepan with 600ml water, the sugar, honey, ginger and lemon juice.
Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the quince is very tender and has turned a deep, rosy amber colour – about an hour and a half.
Drain, reserving the liquor.
Leave the quince to cool, and in a small pan reduce the liquor until thick and syrupy.

Sift the flour, ground ginger, baking powder and salt into a bowl.
In a separate bowl, beat together the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy.
Add the eggs and yolk one at a time, beating well after each addition.
Mix in a few tablespoons of the flour, the creme fraiche and vanilla, fold in the rest of the flour, then the poached quince and chopped ginger.
Spoon into the prepared tin and smooth the top with a spatula.
Bake for about an hour and a quarter (check after an hour – if the cake is browning too quickly, cover with foil), until a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out clean.

While the cake is cooking, whisk together the ginger syrup and poaching syrup to make a glaze.
As soon as the cake comes out of the oven, pierce the top a few times with a skewer and brush on the glaze, letting it trickle into the holes.
Sprinkle over the sugar and leave to cool in the tin for 20 minutes.
Remove from the tin and leave on a wire rack to cool completely.

- Quince recipes | Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall | Life and style | The Guardian

Hot lamb and quince salad from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.

The zingy sweetness of the quince goes beautifully with the rosy lamb.
If you like, add a handful of rocket and/or coriander leaves to the salad, but it's delicious just as it is.
Serves four as a starter, two as a main.

1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
Zest of 1 orange
¼-½ tsp chilli flakes
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
500g lamb leg steak, butterflied (ask the butcher to do this for you), trimmed of excess fat
1 large quince, washed but unpeeled
2 tbsp runny honey
Juice of 1 lemon
1 sprig fresh rosemary
Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a small, dry frying pan over a medium heat, toast the coriander and cumin seeds until just fragrant – about a minute.
Grind roughly with a pestle and mortar, and combine in a bowl with the orange zest, chilli flakes and oil.
Add the lamb, rubbing the marinade well into the surface; cover and marinate for two to four hours, turning over once or twice.

Halve the quince lengthways, remove the core, then cut each half into four segments.
Put these into a small pan with the honey, lemon juice, rosemary and enough water just to cover.
Bring to a simmer, partially cover and poach gently until tender – depending on the size of the quince, about 30-45 minutes.
Remove from the poaching liquid with a slotted spoon and place in the marinade with the lamb.
Turn everything over with your hands so the quince slices are well coated.

Warm up a small griddle pan or frying pan over a high heat.
Fry the seasoned lamb steak for a couple of minutes a side, then leave on a warmed plate to rest for five minutes while you cook the quince.
Griddle or fry the quince segments on both sides until starting to caramelise.

Cut the lamb into thin slices and arrange on plates with the quince.
Deglaze the pan with some of the poaching liquid, then pour the pan juices over the meat and fruit, sprinkle on some flaky sea salt and serve immediately.
- Quince recipes | Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall | Life and style | The Guardian

Stem soup.

Eating It All: From Stalk to Leaves.
By Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.
Hugh joined The River Café in London, where he worked as a sous chef.
He established the original River Cottage Headquarters near Bridport in Dorset in 2004, moving it to Park Farm on the Devon and Dorset border.
By limiting his food intake on fast days to a 250-calorie breakfast and a 350-calorie supper, he lost 3.6kg/8lb in just six days of fasting.


Ingredients
20g butter, or 20ml rapeseed or sunflower oil
1 onion, diced
3 garlic clove, finely chopped
500-600g broccoli stems, cauliflower stems and outer leaves and/or cabbage stalks and outer leaves, roughly chopped (I running the broccoli stalks through the shredding blade of a food processor with small carrot)
1.0 litres chicken or vegetable stock or water
50g crème fraîche, plus extra to serve (optional)
Extra virgin rapeseed or olive oil, to finish
1 large potato, peeled if desired and cut into 3-cm pieces.
1 bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Seasoning to enhance the flavour (optional):
1 tsp oregano
1/2 tsp parsley
1 tsp sage
1/4 tsp ginger

Method
Melt the butter or heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium-low heat, then add the onion, bay leaf and a pinch of salt.
Sauté until the onion is softened, but don’t let it take on any colour.
This should take about 10 minutes.
Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute.
Add the stems…the broccoli - sauté until the broccoli is softened.
Add the potato, stock and salt.
Bring to a boil over high heat and then lower to a simmer.
Cook partially covered until potatoes and broccoli stalks are tender, about 20 minutes.
Puree soup with an immersion blender or in batches in a blender.
Taste for seasoning.

- How to Cook with Broccoli Stalks - Broccoli Stem and Radish Slaw:

- Eating It All: From Stalk to Leaves | Kitchn:

- Tara Duggan on Root-to-Stalk Cooking:
Her recipes use every possible part of the vegetable, from corn husks to broccoli leaves to apple peels - minimizing kitchen waste.
Chard stalks: grilled, dressed, and served as a side dish.
Most underutilized vegetable part: Broccoli stems!

- Why You Shouldn't Throw Away Cauliflower Leaves | Kitchn:
Cauliflower: Do not throw away the leaves. Save them.
Throw them in a bowl or plastic bag with some oil and spices. I can’t say enough about dill and garlic powder.
Place the oiled leaves in a single layer on a baking sheet and roast in a 200C/400°F oven until they darken and get crispy, about 15 minutes.

Celeriac soup.

Celeriac soup | River Cottage:
The lovely taste!

Ingredients
50g Butter
1 Celeriac, peeled and cubed
1 Potato, peeled and cubed
1 Leek, trimmed, washed and roughly sliced
1 Onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1 Garlic clove, sliced
1 litre Stock, chicken, vegetable
Parsley & walnut pesto to serve

Melt the butter in a large, heavy-based pot over a medium-low heat.
Add the celeriac, leek, potato, garlic and onion, season generously, and gently sweat the vegetables until they're all starting to soften (this will take about 10 minutes).
Add the stock, bring the soup up to a boil, turn down the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes or until the celeriac is completely tender.
Liquidise until smooth, return to the pan and reheat over a medium flame.
Just before serving, check the soup for seasoning and serve with a drizzle of pesto.
'via Blog this'

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's melon recipes.

No need to laugh … Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's melon recipes | Life and style | The Guardian
Melon, cucumber and courgette salad with olives and red onion
Here, I've partnered melons with their cucurbit relatives, cucumbers and courgettes. All that delicate, juicy flesh is pointed up beautifully by the assertive flavours of olives and onion. Serves four as a side dish.

½ large cucumber (about 200g)
1 medium courgette (about 200g)
¼ small charentais or galia melon (about 200g)
50g pitted black olives, such as kalamata
½ medium red onion, peeled and finely chopped
Juice of ½ small lemon
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Quarter the cucumber lengthways, scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon and slice into thin quarter-moons about 2mm thick. Put the slices in a large bowl. Top and tail the courgette, quarter it lengthways and cut into pieces the same thickness as the cucumber. Add to the bowl.

Scoop the seeds out of the melon. Carefully slice the melon off its skin, then cut it first lengthways into two to three slender wedges, then crosswise, as with the cucumber and courgette, and add to the bowl.

Roughly chop the olives and add to the salad with the onion. Squeeze over the lemon juice, trickle over the oil, give it a good seasoning and stir together gently. Taste, add more salt, pepper or lemon juice if needed, and serve straight away.

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Melon smoothie with orange, ginger and honey
Puréed ripe melon has a lovely, velvety, almost creamy texture.
This refreshing smoothie tastes best when really cold, so chill the melon first.
If your blender isn't up to processing ice cubes, just drop a couple into each glass before you serve the smoothie.
Serves two.

1 small to medium ripe charentais or galia melon, chilled (about 1kg)
150ml freshly squeezed orange juice
1 thumb-sized chunk ginger, peeled
3-4 ice cubes
1-2 tsp honey

Scoop out the melon seeds, then scoop the flesh off the skin in chunks, dropping them into a blender as you go.
Add the orange juice.

Finely grate the ginger into a sieve over a small bowl.
Press the grated ginger with the back of a spoon, to squeeze out its juice, measure out a teaspoon and add to the blender.
Add the ice and whizz the lot until smooth.
Add a little honey to taste, just to enhance the fruity flavours, and a touch more ginger juice, if you fancy more kick. Drink immediately.