Thursday 3 October 2019

No-stir risotto.



60g butter
2 tbsp olive oil
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1 stick celery, finely chopped
Salt and black pepper
350g Arborio risotto rice (OR Carnaroli, Vialone Nano are starchier)
100ml dry white wine or 50ml dry vermouth
1-1.25 litres light chicken or vegetable stock, simmering
1 large unwaxed lemon (zest and juice)
radishes
75g mascarpone or robiola
60g parmesan or pecorino, grated



In a wide, shallow, heavy-based frying pan or cast iron casserole, warm half the butter and all the oil over a medium-low heat then gently fry the onion and celery along with a pinch of salt until soft and translucent - this will take about seven minutes.
Add the rice and stir until each grain glistens – you want them to become partly translucent and to smell slightly toasty.

In another pan keep the stock at a simmer.
Chicken or vegetable are the most versatile, but ham, fish or beef may work better.


Raise the heat, add the wine or vermouth and let it bubble and evaporate for a minute.
Pour in the 3/4 of hot stock, and bring to a simmer.
Cover the pan and leave to cook, undisturbed, for 15 minutes – keep the remaining broth warm!
Cut the rest of the butter into pieces and grated the cheese.

Add the final stock as it warms and butter while everything bubbles.
Add the lemon zest after 10 minutes.
Continue until the rice is tender but with a slight nutty bite, and the risotto is soft and rippling.
This can take anything from 17 - 25 minutes depending on the rice you are using.

Pull the pan from the heat and, using a wooden spoon, firmly beat the remaining butter, mascarpone, parmesan, two tablespoons of lemon juice and a generous grind of black pepper into the rice.
Cover the pan and leave to rest for one minute.
Beat again and serve risotto topped with radishes.

Prepare radishes:
Whisk together vinegar and oil - 1 tablespoon each.
Add 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper.
Toss radishes with dressing.

A great way to eat radishes.
Vialone Nano: beloved by the Venetians.
Its stubby grain makes it ideal for creamy Risottos and particularly for seafood.
The Italians love it because:
- It is creamy and velvety
- The rice retains some bite,"al dente"
- It is versatile.

This basic risotto is delicious on its own, or with cooked veg stirred through it (I had mine with wilted spinach and baked squash OR radishes), but it’s easy to adapt.
A classic Milanese risotto, say, is made with beef stock and a good pinch of saffron and served alongside osso buco - a famous Italian casserole: shin of veal cooked in white wine with tomatoes.
- Osso buco with saffron risotto | delicious. magazine
- How to cook the perfect osso buco | Food | The Guardian

Mushroom risotto can be made along the same lines, with meat or vegetable stock and the soaking liquid from dried porcini.
As can, in just a few weeks’ time, asparagus risotto made with vegetable or chicken stock and a glug of asparagus cooking water.
Note that fragile ingredients such as asparagus or seafood are best cooked separately and stirred into the risotto just before serving.

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