Sunday, 14 January 2018

Gloria Nicol's Poached Seville oranges - Seville marmalade.

Lady Marmalade | Life and style | The Guardian:
The first sign of fresh Seville oranges for sale heralds the start of the preserving year and usually lasts until late February.
But be warned: recent reports that sales of manufactured marmalade have taken a nose dive and that the homemade version is on the up may mean fruit is harder to find than usual.
Best get started early.

There are two basic methods of making marmalade: paring the uncooked oranges and shredding the peel; or poaching the oranges whole before scooping out the innards and shredding the cooked peel.
I favour the latter method.
Whichever route you choose to take, the peel requires at least a couple of hours of slow cooking to get right.

According to Jane Hasell-McCosh, founder and organiser of the Marmalade Awards, undercooked peel is what lets most people down.
Last year, the festival received more than 650 entries from amateur makers, a third from men, and a further 150 entries from artisan jam makers, sent in from as far afield as Japan.
Every entry is marked for taste and appearance and every entrant receives their scorecard feedback in the post after the event.
The 2011 Marmalade Festival takes place on the 12th & 13th February (you need to get your entries in by the 6th).

It isn't necessary that your marmalade be award-winning.
It can still be delicious.
Here is my tried and tested recipe for this classic breakfast preserve.

Seville marmalade
(makes 2kg)
1 kg Seville oranges
1 lemon
1.5 kg sugar
1.25 litres water

Wash the whole fruits and place in a heavy lidded casserole or a preserving pan that will fit in the oven.
Pour in the water and bring to simmering point on the hob.
Cover or if using a preserving pan make a lid to cover the top with tin foil before placing in a 180 C, Mk4 oven.
Poach the fruit for two-and-a-half to three hours, by which time the skins will be softened.

Using a spoon, lift the fruit out of the liquid into a colander over a bowl and leave to drain.
When the fruit is cool enough to handle, cut each in half and scoop out the insides with a spoon to leave just the peel, placing all the flesh, pith and pips in a muslin bag or a large piece of muslin over a bowl which you can gather into a bag.
Collect all the juice as you go and add it to the poaching liquid.

Measure the poaching liquid and make up to 1 litre with water if necessary.
Place the muslin bag in a preserving pan with the poaching liquid and bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes.
Leave till cool enough to handle then squeeze the bag to get as much of the liquid as possible from the pulp.
Discard the bag and its contents.

Chop the peel into thin strips and add to the preserving liquid.
Add the sugar and stir over a low heat until the sugar is completely dissolved and the liquid is clear.
Turn up the heat and bring to a rolling boil until it reaches setting point. (Setting point is when a dollop of the syrup on a cold plate, readily forms a skin when you push your finger across the surface. This takes me around 20 to 30 minutes.)

Turn off the heat and leave to stand for 15 minutes then stir to distribute the peel.
Pour into hot, clean sterilised jars, put waxed paper circles wax side down on each one and seal immediately.
Label when cool and store in the larder.

PS
This marmalade takes a lot longer to get to the setting point ...reckons that marmalade sets between 104 and 105.5C, and that if it gets any hotter than this, then you're in trouble.
I end up with a tawny amber jelly, with a complex bittersweet flavour, although the set is less firm.
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Sunday, 31 December 2017

Angela Hartnett's aubergine gratin.

- Angela Hartnett's aubergine gratin | Life and style | The Guardian:
A quick vegetarian dish as tasty as parmigiana, but less work.
It has all the components of an aubergine parmigiana – and is just as tasty – but is half the work.
Serves 2

1 large aubergine
50ml olive oil
salt and pepper
25ml good-quality balsamic vinegar
250g buffalo mozzarella
4 large tomatoes, halved
1 tbsp chopped basil
20g chopped black olives

Peel the aubergine, discard the skin and dice into large cubes.
Toss the diced flesh with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
Roast in an oven preheated to 200C for 10 minutes.
Remove from the oven and toss with the balsamic vinegar before mixing with the tomatoes, olives, mozzarella and basil.
Check the seasoning to taste, and return to the oven at 200C for another 5 minutes.
Serve with a green salad.
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Saturday, 30 December 2017

Perfect trifle.

- How to make perfect trifle | Life and style | The Guardian:
British version of "wet cake" and custard.
...the light frothy cream, the smooth, velvety custard, the tangy fruit mingling with the bouquet of wine (or sherry or liqueur), and perhaps a touch of almondy crunchiness from ratafias or macaroons, and lastly the sweet, soft but crumbly texture of the sponge or sponge fingers...or a rather dry sort of sponge cake.
And winter fruit compote: Soaked in orange juice, and lightly spiced with cinnamon and cloves, the dried fruit gives the whole dish a distinctly festive feel, while retaining a slight chewiness which guarantees it won't dissolve into the background.
The jelly adds a bouncy robustness of texture to the base which is actually quite pleasant, but, in combination with custard and cream, it reminds me less of a school treat and more of an infant's party.
Blinkered I may be, but there'll be no jelly in my perfect trifle.
A good custard shouldn't need any such foreign intervention.
A thick layer of whipped cream, as used in every other recipe, provides the delicate foil to the sweet custard and boozy, fruity base.... and the pomegranate seeds, well, they just look nicely festive.
So...the heaven-sent prescription of layers of cake, fruit, booze, custard and cream, you'll be in for a Christmas treat.
Just don't mention the dream topping ...

1. Start by making the compote.
4 handfuls of dried fruit – I like a mix of figs, prunes and apricots
½ cinnamon stick
3 cloves
Zest and juice of 2 oranges
Put all the ingredients into a small pan and barely cover with cold water.
Heat gently and then simmer for about 15 minutes until the fruit is plump and the liquid has become slightly syrupy.
Set aside and allow to cool.

2. Meanwhile, make the custard.
300ml whole milk
300ml double cream
1 vanilla pod, slit in half and seeds scraped out
6 egg yolks
3 tbsp caster sugar
1 tbsp cornflour
Put the milk and cream into a thick-bottomed pan with the vanilla pod and seeds on a gentle heat.
Stir, then bring it to just below a simmer; do not allow it to boil.
Beat the egg yolks, sugar and cornflour together in a large bowl.

Remove the vanilla pod from the hot milk and pour the milk on to the yolk and sugar mixture, stirring all the time.

Turn the heat down to medium-low, and pour the custard back into the pan.
Stirring slowly and continuously, cook until it coats the back of a wooden spoon – the longer you cook it, the thicker it will be.
If it doesn't appear to be thickening after 10 minutes, you may have the heat slightly too low, but don't turn it up dramatically or you'll spoil all your hard work. (Alternatively, if you're not feeling terribly brave, suspend a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water, pour the yolk and milk mixture into that, and proceed as above.)
Bear in mind you'll be tied to the stove for at least 20 minutes, so put some good music on.
Decant into a jug to cool, pressing some clingfilm on to the surface to prevent a skin forming.

4. How to put together:
1 packet boudoir biscuits (also sold as lady fingers or savoiardi)
100ml sweet sherry
1 packet ratafia or amaretti biscuits
300ml double cream
15g flaked almonds, toasted
Seeds of ¼ pomegranate
Line a glass bowl with boudoir biscuits and, after picking out the spices (3 cloves, remember) spoon the compote and juices over the top.
Pour over the sherry and then scatter over the amaretti.
Dollop the cooled custard on top, and then cover with clingfilm and refrigerate until set.

5. Whip the cream to soft peaks, spoon on top of the trifle and chill for at least two hours before serving.
Just before serving, arrange the almonds and pomegranate seeds on top – if you leave them there too long the seeds will bleed colour into the cream, and the nuts will go soggy.

OR instead of cream put on top Fruit Mousse!
- Four seasons.: Light and Easy 5-Minute Fruit Mousse.:

Is trifle truly one of Britain's greatest contributions to dessert, or a revolting medieval mess that's best left to the toothless and the Italians?
What do you put in your version (any savoury suggestions?) and if not trifle, what would you choose for the grand finale of your final meal?

Light and Easy 5-Minute Fruit Mousse.

- Light and Easy 5-Minute Fruit Mousse Recipe | Serious Eats:
Leftover Egg Whites!
Fruit Mousse on top of Perfect trifle!
- Four seasons.: Perfect trifle.:

- Ingredients
125 g fresh raspberry (in recipe: about 2 1/4 cups) frozen berries or other fruit
2 tablespoons of cane sugar (or use sugar, honey, maple syrup or stevia extract to taste)
1 large egg white
Fresh berries and whipped cream for serving (optional)

Directions
- Add fruit to the bowl of small food processor.
Process to a rough puree, about 1 minute.
Add the sugar or another sweetener and pulse briefly to combine.
If you're using a different sweetener, add a small amount at a time to taste.
- Add the egg white and process until smooth and fluffy and the mixture has lightened in color and doubled or tripled in volume, 2 to 3 minutes.

- If the mixture clings to the sides of the food processor's bowl too much (this may happen if the blade doesn't extend all the way to the sides of the bowl), transfer the mixture to a normal medium-sized bowl and beat with a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment until fluffy.

- Spoon the mousse into glasses and top or layer with fresh berries and/or whipped cream (optional).
Serve immediately or store in the refrigerator for up to 2 hours (because this mousse has very little sugar in it, it's not very stable and it won't hold for longer than that).
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No-Knead Peasant Bread.

- Alexandra Stafford's No-Knead Peasant Bread Recipe on Food52:
- My Mother's Peasant Bread: The Easiest No-Knead Bread You Will Ever Make:
- Meet the Woman Behind the Internet's Favorite Bread Recipe | TASTE:
yield 2 loaves
Ingredients
4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (512 g)
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons sugar
2¼ teaspoons instant yeast
2 cups lukewarm water (between 36.5 to 40.5 Celsius)
softened butter, for greasing
















- Artisan Sourdough Made Simple + A Giveaway - Alexandra's Kitchen:

How hot is lukewarm?

- How hot is lukewarm? - The Chef in Me:
Lukewarm is when you mix together 1 part normal, room temperature water with 2 parts boiling water or milk.
Simple!
Now that’s your lukewarm water or milk.

“Generally means between 98 and 105 degrees Fahrenheit, 36.5 to 40.5 Celsius.
When you run the water on your wrist and it feels warmer than your body temperature, but not hot, that should be just about right.
If you’ve ever tested the temperature of warm formula or milk in a baby’s bottle, that’s lukewarm.”

Friday, 29 December 2017

Lentils with potatoes.


small brown lentils
olive oil
white onion, finely chopped
garlic clove, finely chopped
carrot, peeled and finely chopped
celery stick, finely chopped
bay leaves
diced tomatoes or passata
potatoes cut into small pieces
broth
smoked British Bacon Lardons
Salt and black pepper

- Wash the lentils.
Boil the kettle.
In a large, deep frying pan or Dutch oven, warm the olive oil and add with a five-minute interval the smoked British Bacon Lardons, onion, garlic, carrot and celery and fry gently until soft.

- add the lentils and bay leaves and then cover with at least 5cm of water and cook at the gentlest of simmers until the lentils are tender, but still with just a little bite – which will take anything from 20–40 minutes (be careful: lentils turn from tender to mush quite quickly).
Stir in the tomatoes, potatoes.
Keep tasting and add more water or broth if the pan looks dry.
By the end of cooking, the water should have been almost completely absorbed.
Season.

Serve with sausages (Waitrose British chorizo pork sausages or Toulouse sausages with bacon, red wine & garlic - best for me!).
Brown them in a little oil, then pour over a wine (red, white or rosé) and put on the lid so they cook in a steamy braise for 20 minutes.

Adapted from
- basic lentil soup:
- Favorite Lentil Soup: One-Pot, Vegan, Completely Delicious - Alexandra's Kitchen:

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Wednesday, 27 December 2017

How To Make the Best Caesar Dressing from Kitchn

- How To Make the Best Caesar Dressing | Kitchn:
Classic Caesar salad dressing is deeply debated.
A quick search on the internet will lead you to over one-million recipes, each of them different.
Some claim the classic doesn't contain anchovies.
There are recipes without egg yolks, and dressings made from tofu and even mayonnaise, but none of these are the best Caesar salad dressing.
The best Caesar salad dressing starts with anchovies and garlic, and it creates an emulsion with raw egg yolks, mustard, and two types of oil.
The best Caesar salad dressing is deceptively simple and delectable — and this is it.

How To Make the Best Caesar Dressing
Makes 1 cup

Friday, 15 December 2017

Snack!

- Z Tasty Life - It is so fascinating for me to revive ancient, lost...:
Here we go: whisk one egg, continue whisking and add 2 tablespoons of flour, then whisk in 1/2 cup milk.
Cook in a hot small non-stick pan with 2 tablespoons of olive oil.
Note: it will break, unless you are incredibly delicate.
I flip it with an inverted plate.
You can do smaller one, but a big one is traditional.
I like adding lemon zest.
A know variation is [el-paradél-cui-pomm], in which one adds apple slices.

It is so fascinating for me to revive ancient, lost recipe of frugal, regional Italian cuisine.
Here is one I absolutely love for its speed and simplicity (perfect for snack): [el #paradél], from the Como region of Italy, and it is over 300 years old, or possibly more ancient.
In the past, this sweet, giant pancake was done with the very littlest thing from a semi-empty pantry: some water and flower fried in a pan.
Then, it evolved to include an egg and some milk... when available.
A dusting of powder sugar turns into a treat.
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Monday, 4 December 2017

Julian Barnes. The Pedant In The Kitchen.

'Lesson Two: that the relationship between professional and domestic cook has similarities to a sexual encounter.
One party is normally more experienced than the other; and either party should have the right, at any moment, to say, 'No, I'm not going to do that.'

My Cranberry-Orange Babka.

- Cranberry-Orange Babka - Flourish - King Arthur Flour:
recipe with pic!

I did the recipe from #katryababka



Thursday, 30 November 2017

Jam tarts and ring tins.

- A ring and a pot | rachel eats:

- jam tarts and ring tins – rustica RETRO: "Ciambellone"
Ciambelle (Ciambella, singular) are Italian bundt cakes that vary by region, including some savoury varieties.
'via Blog this'